Wednesday, August 19, 2015
Tuesday, August 18, 2015
In the past that's left us with a fair amount of "scrap". We used to sell it, stuffed into a Flat Rate Padded Envelope, it typically ran 1-1.5 lbs. worth, which is more than you might think. We stopped doing that because it was just too fussy and we have better things to do.
Well the scrap pile is getting near it's end and we want it out of here. So we've added suede scraps back to the Store page, and the price is the same as before, $20.00 shipped in the US, only now it gets stuffed into a Medium Flat Rate box. The Medium box holds a fair share more. You'll get all sizes, totally random. Some small scraps some large.
Once it's gone, that will be it...........we think.
Posted by FJ at 11:52 AM
Monday, August 10, 2015
Last week the October issue of Popular Woodworking landed in my mailbox. Inside (among many other great articles, like Jeff Miller's slat back chair) is my article on how I made the marquetry-encrusted lid for my joint tool chest project with Chris Schwarz from earlier this year. Watch this video for a tour of the chest with Chris.
I've got a few articles under my belt now, but this one was by far and away the most difficult. The chest lid itself require many techniques, all of which I tried to cover in a thorough but succinct way. It's not easy to cram three months of work into five pages. (I made many many passes over the final draft to get to my required word count.) It is after all, a woodworking magazine, not my personal blog.
But because of the internet, I can share further details about the lid that one just can't fit into a magazine article.
I managed to take a bit of video during the construction process, all quite impromptu and rough, since I was working on a deadline, but it edited down to some interesting moments during the lid's creation.
I took 833 photos during the construction of the lid. I weeded out the bad ones and still ended up with close to 500, including some renderings and mockups of how the design developed.
I've uploaded these into a public gallery here. There's no captions or text. You'll have to read the article.
The first pics show the early stages of the design. At first I was going to do a painted medallion, but that got replaced by the tool montage. At one point Chris and I changed the dimensions of the lid, so the early pics and renderings of the sunburst show the lid a full 12" longer than the final product. I glued up the rays that size, then later cut 6" off each end before veneering the lid.
If you don't subscribe (and you should, it's an inexpensive subscription) you can pick up the issue at your local bookstore/newsstand (not sure when those are scheduled to arrive) or you can order the issue online through the PWM website.
Monday, August 3, 2015
We received a quick note from Frank last week about a bench he's recently finished and is now up for sale. Outfitted with C-Series vises (for that vintage look) the bench is 66" long, 24" wide and 36" high. Frank reports the top is Euro beech, and the base is drawbored m&t eastern hard maple, built from solid 16/4 legs.
Frank's work is well known around here. It can described in one word: perfect. To see more pics of this particular bench, see Frank's blog and for more of Frank's work, see our blog post from a couple months ago.
In case you're wondering, the amount of work that goes into a shorter bench like this is no different than a longer bench. This is a bench your great grandchildren could easily be using.
Full disclosure: We don't have any special arrangement with Frank. When we catch wind of any professional bench maker doing outstanding work with our vises, we're more than happy to spread the word.
Monday, July 20, 2015
When we first released our Classic Leg Vise we promised a few that we'd eventually offer it without the black Parkerized finish. Here's your chance to pick one up.
We only have a limited number of these, since this isn't a stock item. First come, first served.
The vise will arrive unfinished, sporting the freshly-machined steel surfaces right off our mills and lathes. The parts will have a light coating of oil. We recommend that you treat these like raw steel (since they are) and either keep them lightly oiled, or give them a good coat of paste wax to keep the rust at bay. You could also just let them get a nice old bronzey patina, if you have a few years worth of patience. A rub down with steel wool, followed by cold bluing would give them a steel-blue sort of look. Baked flax is also an option.
The handle is the only part that doesn't get fully machined. Since we start with cold rolled steel, the main shaft of the handle shows the mill finish, with only the threaded ends, and the V-groove midway being machined. This makes the main shaft look less shiny than the rest of the vise. The solution to unify the look of the handle (if you care) is to polish it with a maroon or gray Scotch-Brite pad, followed by fine steel wool (which is what we did to the assembled handle in the background.) You can do this to the rest of the vise as well, if you like the brushed, satiny-look.
If you're building a complete bench, this would pair nicely with a Tail Vise M, with its fully-machined handwheel.
The price of the unfinished Classic is the same as the standard Classic. See our store page for more info and options. If you would like a Benchmaker's Package with a Tail Vise M, make sure you request this specifically when ordering.
To order: Send an email to us, let us know exactly what you want, and include your full name and shipping address. We'll send you an invoice with the total, including shipping.
These are only available by sending us an email, they are NOT available through the website.
We're packaging the vises up this week, and they should ship within 2-3 weeks.
Monday, July 6, 2015
For the past couple weeks we've been building a small staked desk, much like the one Schwarz built recently.
We like this style of furniture since it shares much of the DNA of chairmaking, and we also like it because its fast to make, completely functional, and supremely durable.
I usually do my rake and splay on paper with a quick sketch, then use Galbert's sightline square to find the numbers. But I thought I'd try and work everything out in Sketchup so I could spin the piece around in perspective view and taste the final look.
I'm no Sketchup expert, but here's how I did it anyway. Its fun and easy. My explanation will assume you have some experience drawing in Sketchup.
First, make sure you're working in parallel projection. Draw a vertical plumb line at each leg location using the tape measure tool.
Now switch to front view so everything looks like a vector drawing. Select two legs from the left or right end (you'll need to orbit a bit to select them both) then rotate 10 degrees (or whatever) for the splay. I'm not rotating at the top of the table, but my pivot point is where the leg meets the underside of the batten. This keeps the legs centered on the batten.
Here's what it looks like when you orbit. Legs are splayed only.
When happy, draw a line from the end of the leg over to the vertical guideline. Don't worry about the angle of this line, it doesn't matter as long as you connect it with the plumb line.
I learned from Pete Galbert that the sightline is visible when you walk around a chair (or table) and the leg in question appears to be dead plumb, that is, you can't see any rake or splay.
Orbit the table ("walk around it"), and you'll see your angled leg line up perfectly with the vertical plumb line once you're viewing directly along the sightline. Like this:
The sightline is the plane in which you tilt your drill at a certain angle to create rake and splay. In other words, keep your drill dead plumb in one plane (along the sightline) then tilt it to the correct angle (the resultant) and your rake and splay will happen automatically. It's super simple once you've tried it.
Here's how to find the resultant angle.
Select the triangle, copy and move away from the table so its easier to measure.
Use the protractor tool to measure the angle. That's it. That's the angle you tilt your drill to get 10 degree splay and 13 degree rake.
Finally, I select a leg, and move it up just enough (it should only take a smidge) that the end of the leg is visible at the top, then use the dimension tool to find the drilling location from the ends of the top. Notice that it's not at the same location as the plumb line. That's because the leg is centered on the batten below, not at the top. This only applies when drilling through the top and batten at the same time. If you're drilling through the batten only at an angle, then I would just drill through the bottom on the center of the batten.
For further info, see Chairmaker's Notebook, Appendix A: Creating and Using Sightlines.
Also, Pete's video.
Thursday, June 25, 2015
We often field questions about the accuracy required to install our vises, or the precision required when building a bench. More often than not the assumption is that you need to get your wood perfect down to the last thousandth of an inch. Or something aligned dead on. But the one that makes us smile the most is the one where folks think that vise jaws need to close like two components of the international space station mating up together for the first time in zero gravity.
The truth is, precision can screw things up. When speaking of how vises hold wood, we like accuracy. And what I mean by that is that the vise grabs and holds the wood perfectly every time. What we aren't looking for here is precision. In other words, the jaws of a vise should have some amount of free rotational movement. This accomplishes two thing. It keeps the mechanism moving freely, and it allows the jaw or chop to conform to the shape of the workpiece.
To achieve this, we machine our vises accurately (they all perform consistently), but only build precision where needed. Some of our customers complain that their chop rotates horizontally after installing their vise. They assume the chop is supposed to close perfectly parallel with the front edge of the bench and not rotate, but be stiff, like a Record-style vise. But that precision is a handicap. It restricts movement, and all but guarantees that the vise will work stiffly. Yes, we work mostly with parallel-faced stock, but occasionally we need to hold other shapes too. But if the chop is left free to rotate a bit, it will naturally seat against flat stock and hold it fast, and also hold tapered work.
To illustrate, this week we're building some staked furniture and working some tapered octagonal legs for a small reading desk. The Glide, with its intentional imprecision has been perfect for this. These legs taper from 2-5/8" to 1-5/8" over 28".
Tuesday, June 23, 2015
Monday, June 22, 2015
We've sold out of the La Forge Royale Miter Jack kits, but there's a silver lining. We made a double run of the metal bits which we're offering for sale. All you'll have to make is the wooden screw, and tap the nut block. The inexpensive wood threading kits will work (if you have a lot of patience) but we like the Beall products. The 1-1/4" is the one to get. If you don't want to bother with the threading, we recommend you contact Nick at Lake Erie Toolworks, who makes the best quality wood threads in the world.
The contents of the Miter Jack Kit Metal Bits are pictured above (minus the wood screw and nut block of course.) All the metal bit are manufactured in the USA by us. You'll also get a pouch with all the various screws needed to assemble the jack.
Price: $38 plus shipping.
You can order them directly on our Store page.