Thursday, May 7, 2009

Tail Vise Revised Instructions



We just completed a big update to the Benchcrafted Tail Vise installation instructions. We've come up with several better methods since the last version. We are now routing the cavity with the bench upside down. This simplifies the process. There are also a few tweaks here and there that will save a bit of time. We've also included numerous new photos with both the standard vise install, and a left-handed install. Make sure you note which photos apply to your installation. They are clearly marked.

We'll emphasize again-make sure you read through the instructions from start to finish a couple times before you cut any wood. This is good practice for any project.

Instructions for the Tail Vise are provided via pdf document on the Tail Vise page.

For added convenience, you can download them directly here:
Benchcrafted Tail Vise Installation Instructions PDF.

Please don't hesitate to contact us directly if you have any questions about the vise.

2 comments:

  1. hi i talked with u at chicago i see that you dont like the shelix head. i have a dw735 and this maple is going to eat alot of blades (2 pkg so far). so i was looking at the shelix. now im thinking it might be better to use the shelix as a rough cut blade and follow up with a few passes under the drum. just how bad is the shelix finish

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  2. Let me clarify. I love my shelix head. But I get the best joints when I handplane the surfaces. Before I had a shelix I hand planed surfaces from the straight knife planer too. Hand planes will get the joint flatter than any machine. A drum sander will make your boards less flat than your planer, and will make your top joints very frustrating to glue up tightly. The shelix is a better value in the long run since you get better edge life. I've had mine for about a year, and so far I'm very satisfied.

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