We received this note from plane maker, BBQist, and speed skiing expert Brian Buckner a few days ago. We remember seeing this is Landis' "The Workbench Book" (now almost 30 years old!). Handy little buggers, and looks like they work great with our Tail Vise. One addition we'd suggest to the design. Lengthen the width of the jaws between the dowels for holding narrow stuff. You'll get the functionality of an open-front, moving-block tail vise, without any of the disadvantages.
I wanted to share with you the recent additions I've added to my
Shaker bench (outfitted with your leg and wagon vises) that I built
based loosely on the one that Ron Brese built and Benchcrafted
published plans for. These additions are called "Bench Puppies" or "Edge
Dogs" depending on the source. I built mine based on a recent article in Fine Woodworking that was written by a student of James Krenov. It seems
that these holding devices are popular at Krenov's College of the
Redwoods school. Also, these devices are mentioned in Scott Landis' "The Workbench Book" (pages 108 & 109). He even shows some "store
bought" versions (but I've never seen any myself).
In short these simple devices are fantastic! They hold items very
securely and really broaden the holding capacity and versatility of my
bench's wagon vise. Certainly well worth the meager time and materials
required to build them. I used scrap and about an hour of time building
mine.
The FWW article presents and discusses them in the context of a
bench equipped with a traditional tail vise. Since the wagon vise is a
close cousin of the tail vise (but much better in my opinion) I thought
I've give them a try. I was at first a bit curious if they would work in
a wagon vise since they would have to span and ride along the fixed
benchtop front laminate. I was a little concerned that they might be
prone to binding. In use this has not been the case.
A couple other concerns I had included the suitability of using a
round peg in my square dog holes. I had considered making a special
square dog that would have a round hole for the device's "peg". I'm glad
I didn't waste my time pursuing this as the "round peg in the square
hole" seems to work just fine. I was careful to turn the dowels to a
close fit for the bench dog holes since a smaller peg would just
introduce "slop" and might cause some problems. I was also wondering if
the 2 degree forward lean that is built into each of the existing dog
holes would have a negative impact. I was pleased to find that it does
not appear to affect the functionality of these devices in any way.
I followed the basic construction techniques shown in the FWW
article but digressed in a few places. Rather than glue the heel block
on and then fit the peg as the article shows I chose to reverse the
steps. I first fit the peg into the body of the device then placed that
assembly into the dog hole of my bench. This allowed me to then ensure
that the clamping face of the block was perfectly perpendicular to the
front laminate. I clamped the body in place and then glued and clamped
the heel in place. I've been wondering if it might be advantageous to
cant the clamping face a degree or two out of perpendicular (leaning
inward towards the front laminate) as this might increase the holding
power of these devices even more.
This comment has been removed by the author.
ReplyDeleteI saw this in FWW too. Was trying to figure out how to use them on an English workbench without a tail vise...or not....hmmm...
ReplyDeleteMANY CONGRATULATIONS FOR THIS NEW WORK YOU HAVE DONE. VERY COMFORTABLE USE OF THE SPECIAL MORSE. ALWAYS ASK YOU SORRY FOR MY ENGLISH BECAUSE IS TRANSLATED BY GOOGLE TRANSLATE.- MR PHILIP LAI
ReplyDelete1) As when gluing up the legs of a Windsor chair, use liquid hide glue (i.e. Old Brown Glue) to glue the post into the hole. This minimizes the chance of the post getting seized in the hole before it is placed all the way in.
ReplyDelete2) If you follow Buckner's order of gluing up, don't forget to cover your workbench surface with plastic wrap to prevent gluing the edge dogs to the bench.
3) If you follow Jameel's recommendation to extend the bottom leg (and I always follow Jameel's advice), then double the length of this leg when drawing the design. This way you can cut off the second half to serve as the block that gets glued up underneath. It's the proper length and the grain direction is the same. Remember: the grain runs obliquely here.
4) You can eliminate step 3 by simply gluing on some cork on the opposite ends of the dogs as well and swapping out the left dog for the right and vice versa. These ends now meet completely and you can easily grab narrow objects. Perhaps there is a disadvantage with the diagonal legs running in this counter-direction, but I haven't yet seen a problem.
I think this is a great innovation. I really appreciates with your article. thanks for sharing useful tips with a wonderful, nice and simple photos.I am looking forward to sharing your adventures and experiences.Montanez
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