WIA Last Call

A quick update before we head to Cincinnati for WIA (click the big banner to the right for more info).

Do stop by our booth this year for some special freebies. Sorry, no hints. Well, okay maybe a little one. These come in 6 varieties (you'll want one of each) and include some useful woodworking information, plus they are just plain fun. We had a blast making these up for the show.

Another free treat if you stop by and see us. We'll point to the left where you can slide over to the Brese Plane booth and have a go with the stainless steel and ebony beauty above.

New Stuff at WIA

Woodworking In America is less that two weeks away. If you want to attend a woodworking show this season, don't miss this one. There is no other event in the country where you can find all the major hand tool makers under one roof. Make no mistake, this is THE hand tool event of the year.

Everyone wants to see new tools at this show, and toolmakers want to show their new wares. We're no different.

We'll be showing our prototype vises that use non-chrome-plated cast iron wheels. These look and feel great. And that will only improve with age and use. Think "patina". Look for these in the weeks following WIA.

We're also working on a new variation of our Skraper. This one will have a longer handle, and a narrow blade for getting into tight, deep spaces. If you've ever built a bench with square dog holes and needed to clean the glue out, you'll fall to your knees and weep when you get one of these in your hands. Sorry, no sneak peeks on this one. And sorry, we won't have one at WIA. But if you ask about it, we'll be glad to brag it up!

Czeck Edge Tools

We're sharing a large booth space with two other toolmakers that we're happy to call friends.

Bob Zajicek runs Czeck Edge Hand Tool. Not listed on his website but available at the conference will be the Czeck Edge chisels. These are small chisels designed for detail work such as chopping waste from drawer dovetails and inlay mortises. They are the only finely-crafted chisels available right now in their size. Make sure you Czeck them out. (sorry, Bob).

Right alongside Benchcrafted will again be Brese Plane. Ron has been working steady in his shop this summer getting ready for WIA. We're big fans of Ron's work, and he's been teasing us with his new offerings. Just last night the tease took the form of a picture in our inbox. Looks like a smoothing-size plane from his Precision Stainless Steel line. Except for that extra lever cap. Hmmm....

See you in Cincinnati.

See The Benchcrafted Shaker Bench in Cincinnati October 1-2

We've completed the prototype for the Benchcrafted Shaker Bench. As we've written previously, this bench was built around our vises for those who would like to build something other than our Split-Top Roubo. When we get closer to completing the plans we'll post some info about why you would possibly need, or want, a bench like this vs. a more massive bench like a Roubo style.

In the meantime, if you'd like to see this bench in person and take it for a test drive, we'll be exhibiting at the Woodworking In America Conference October 1-2. The conference is full. But the marketplace, where all the exhibitors will be gathered, is open to anyone willing to pay $5 to get in (that includes both days). Make sure you print out this coupon to get the $5 admission fee (the regular fee is $7). If you're disappointed that the registration is full, don't be. You could wander around the entire marketplace for both days and talk with toolmakers (most of whom come from backgrounds in fine furniture making, high-end carpentry, and lutherie) and attend the numerous free seminars and you'd get enough info to digest for the next year. We will have our complete line of products available for sale at the conference. Please stop by our booth and say hello.

Split-Top Roubo/Tail Vise--Front Laminate Thickness

Just got a question from a customer about the front laminate width for their Tail Vise install. They want to make it 1-3/4" instead of the 1-1/2" the templates and plans call for. This works fine. The important thing to consider is the placement of the template when laying out the tail vise position on the end cap. The template MUST be placed so the left edge of the slot in the bench lines up with the left edge of the slot in the template. This guarantees the sliding plate assembly will be positioned properly within the slot. Get this wrong and bad things will happen.

-The hole in the sliding plate for the dog hole could end up under your front laminate.

-The vise screw could end up partially in the slot.

-The hole in the sliding plate could end up within the cavity the nut rides in, which also means your front guide rail will be floating under the slot.

All bad things. So take a look at the drawing and see where the critical fixed point is--the left of the slot. So if you make a front laminate more than 1-1/2"  just imagine that it grows wider from a fixed point at the left edge of the slot and you will be fine.

Shaker Bench First Look

This past couple weeks we've been building our prototype Shaker-style bench, based on the bench that we built with Ron Brese earlier this year. Ron's design was popular enough at several woodworking events this year that we've decided to draw up a set of plans based on his bench. That way, if you'd like to build a bench like Ron's, with Benchcrafted vises, the task will be made quicker and more enjoyable with our excellent plans.

We've scaled down Ron's bench from 8' to 7' to accommodate the typical small shop, and we think the proportions are such that this bench still has the "long" look of typical Shaker benches. Of course most folks think of the Hancock bench, with its bowling-alley-on-cabinet look. We wanted to capture some of that feel with this bench design. Tough to do with a bench that's about half as long as the Hancock bench.

There are a couple cool features about this design that I'd like to mention. The Glide hardware is completely enclosed within its own section of the cabinet base. This makes for a very clean look on the outside. No roller brackets are visible. And since the rear section of the leg vise, the "leg", is fastened to the cabinet from inside, there are no visible fasteners on it either. We think this meshes nicely with the Shaker aesthetic. Along those lines we're also fitting this bench with our prototype hand wheels. No chrome on these. Just the warm, understated look of the raw cast iron.

We built the cabinet using readily available home-center (USA-made, don't waste your money on the Chinese stuff) birch plywood and 5/4 poplar, which we milled down to 1". The cabinet is constructed using glued and screwed butt joints. You might wonder if this is strong enough for a bench. We think it is.

Once the numerous cabinet elements are glued and joined, the entire structure becomes one solid, rigid mass. Plus, the face frame is constructed with half-lap joints, and at 1" thick, this provides plenty of strength. The back of the cabinet is made from one piece of ply, instead of the lapped pine boards on Ron's bench. This adds a whole lot of rigidity to the base. We've also added some traditional cut nails to the mix for strength and a classic look. We recently acquired a Festool track saw and used it for cutting the plywood base parts of the cabinet. The joints coming off the saw are so smooth, straight, and clean that the glue joints we were getting looked like they came off a finely-tuned jointer plane. This no doubt adds to the strength of the joints. But if you'd like to build your cabinet with dadoes, tongue-and-groove, biscuits, dominoes, or some other method, we won't call the joinery police. As with our Split-Top Roubo plans, we encourage builders to adjust their bench to their needs. Which is another reason we don't include a cut list with the plans. By including the main dimensions of the parts, you are free to add length or width to suit your joinery methods and tools.


As we move closer to finalizing the plans, we'll make some comments about the differences between this bench and our Split-Top Roubo. While both benches offer excellent workholding, there are some differences that we'd like to point out. You also don't need to be an Olympic power-lifter to build the Shaker bench. It's a much more manageable build, and it also uses less material, and less-expensive material.

Unfortunately, we won't have the plans ready for the Woodworking In America Conference. But we will have this bench at our booth. The Brese Plane booth is right next to our's, and Ron will be bringing his bench as well. If you are in the Cincinnati area October 1-2, please stop by and see us. Admission is only $7 to the best woodworking tool (hand tools especially) show this year.

V.2 Tail Vise--New Instructions Now Available

After a delay in preparing revised instruction for the V.2 Tail Vise since we revised it last April, they are now available for download on the Tail Vise page. Or directly at this link.

The instructions cover both the original Benchcrafted Tail Vise, and the new V.2. Pictures in color apply to the original and/or the V.2, with several detail shots (in black-and-white to make them easy to spot) that apply only to the V.2. We also cover the changes the V.2 presents within the text portion of the instructions.

Templates are also now included at the end of the instructions for your convenience.

We're also including a detailed drawing of the dog block and sliding plate assembly, taken directly from our Split-Top Roubo plans.

Fellow Toolmakers

In the past couple years we've had the chance to befriend a number of fellow tookmakers. These relationships have not only enriched our respective endeavors, but our lives as well.

I'd like to mention a couple of them in this post. 

First off is Raney Nelson of the Daed Toolworks. Raney is not only a past customer (he built a great bench with Benchcrafted vises) but also a friend. Raney lives in New Jersey with his with wife and kids, and makes beautiful and functional infill planes. If you like miter planes, or strike box planes keep an eye on Raney's work. He's also making more familiar types like coffin smoothers and panels. But we're particularly keen on seeing some of his new miter planes that he has in the works (you can catch a sneek peek of some in the pics above and below).

The other toolmaker is Matt Bickford. Matt's a relatively new planemaker, specializing in wood moulding planes. Although we haven't met Matt in person, we had a chance to correspond a bit and throw a little business his way earlier this year (the funding for which came by way of an article I wrote for Popular Woodworking Magazine--but more on that later). I picked up a composite set of planes for use in my own personal shop. I've always wanted a set of hollows and rounds for producing "real" molding profiles. Plus, I'll do anything to keep my router shelved! Matt's work is beautiful. The planes are made of cherry and the irons are produced by Lie-Nielsen. So far I'm quite pleased with Matt's work. I'm fairly new to this type of plane, but it's always nice to get a tool that is literally ready to go out of the box. Matt's planes showed up perfectly honed. Matt's website is: M.S. Bickford.

Raney and Matt will be exhibiting their tools this fall at the Woodworking In America Conference in Cincinnati October 1-2. We'll be there too. 

Roubo In Hi Res

I've spent the last few months poring over hi-res images of Roubo's L'Art Du Menuisier. What's fascinating about these books is the sheer vastitude of content that Roubo covered. Everything from basic geometry to the workings of Venetian (or is it Parisian?) blinds. There's even a detailed drawing for a collapsible, portable bed. And that doesn't even include the tools.

Like many interested in traditional woodwork, I'd love to have an original copy of Roubo's "L'Art Du Menuisier". Unfortunately, they are quite expensive.

Until I find a set at a local French estate sale, my best source for these incredible engravings is the New York Public Library's Digital Gallery. There are 107 plates available for viewing. Make sure you click on the "zoom" button at the bottom of the image. I thought the handwritten notes in French were a nice touch.

I'm looking forward to reading Roubo's work in English, soon to be published in a modern translation by those well-versed in traditional woodwork. If you have an interest in Roubo, make sure you stay abreast of the developments with this translation and publishing project here.

Milling Dog Holes And Other Questions

Here's another round of customer questions that we thought we'd share.

Q: I have been reviewing my bench plans and I had a question. Do you have a suggestion on how to produce the jig you have made for routing the dogholes? Is this jig ever going to be made for sale? Also is it a bad idea to create the recess for the tailvise during lamination? Geez more then one question sorry, when are the V2 tailvise instructions going to be maid available?

A: Below are some pics and notes about the jig we use for routing dog holes. And no, we won't be making one for sale. You can make on in your shop in about 30 minutes. It's a good idea to create the tail vise cavity during the top build. Or at least most it. If you can't easily make it spot on while building, just "leave out" most of it, then take it to final dimensions with a plunge router (or chisel and mallet). The V.2 Tail Vise instructions are almost done and we will hopefully post them this week. Stay tuned to the blog for this announcement.















The dog holes are routed into the side of the dog hole strip before it is laminated to the rest of the top. The are routed into the "back side" of the strip, that's why they are leaning the "wrong" way in the above picture. To make the jig, layout the dog hole actual size on a piece of 1/2" plywood, but shift it down 3/4" from the top edge of the ply (this is to account for the fence thickness). Cut the dog hole "out" from the plywood. I use a miter saw to establish the 2-degree angle cuts, then followup with the band saw to cut the step into the left side of the jig where the head of the dog will rest. Now separate the halves the width of the dog hole and screw a 3/4" x 1-1/4" hardwood fence to the underside of the jig, flush the back edge. This will position the dog hole correctly from the top of the dog strip. Make the fence a bit longer than the entire jig so you have something for the clamps to hold onto.




















Rout the dog hole with a pattern (top-bearing) bit. You'll cut into the fence a bit at the top, just make sure you don't cut completely through, or you'll ruin the fence. You'll have to make the cut at full depth for the bearing to engage. If you have two routers you can make the cut in a couple passes. Fit the first router with a template guide and spiral upcut bit and make a hogging cut (I did this in the above pic--there's about 1/8" of waste remaining) leaving just a little waste to be removed with the pattern bit. This eases wear on the pattern bit and reduces burning too. Keep in mind that at the top left corner and the bottom right corner your router will want to blow out grain as it exits the cut. I move the bit almost to the corner, then swing out and back to make a climb cut to reduce blowout. You can also scribe these areas deeply with a knife before routing to further eliminate blowout. But if you're careful and attentive (and confident!) with the router, the climb cut just at the end is sufficient.

Once you've done one, reposition the jig and do the rest. Be careful with the dog strip once you've routed all the holes. It will still be heavy, but fragile. It will want to flop around. Also, when you glue the dog strip to the rest of the top, make sure you put glue on the dog strip only! And don't go overboard here. Cleaning glue out of dog holes is no fun. Well, actually it can be with a new product we're working on. But more about that some other time.
















Q: I joyously received my vise last week and sat down to install it today and it appears I have a left handed version. I'm skeptical that I ordered it wrong but that's not out of the realm of possibility. I'm attaching a picture (see below) to make sure I'm not crazy. Maybe this just got put in the wrong box?

A: Pictured is a right-hand vise. For shipping purposes we install the sliding plate assembly on the screw in the reverse position. Just unthread it from the screw, flip it around, then thread it on from the other side of the nut. That's it.




















Q: Hello, I am just about to get started on my Roubo bench. I have been reading and watching everything I can about the project. I am sure as I move forward there will be many questions for me to find answers to, but one thing looks off to my eye. Is there a reason that the Gap Stop is not the same length as the bench top?

A: Thanks for the (not dumb) question. Here's the no-nonsense reason the gap stop is shorter than the workbench. When I built the prototype those were the longest boards I had on hand. I quickly realized that a longer one wasn't necessary. If you want it to reach the end of one of the tops (for example, when crosscutting), just slide it down. You can also make the gap stop the entire length if you want, but if you build it to the plans, you'll save some weight and that makes it easier to lift out and reposition if you like. The gap stop in the plans is just a starting point. You can make your's to suit your work.

Greene and Greene Essence

For those who appreciate the designs of Charles and Henry Greene, I'd like to share a source for their original architectural records. While there are a few images here of furniture, I think the architectural drawings and interior photographs are a great source for inspiration whether you build in this style or not. I've never built anything in the G&G style, but I have a great appreciation for excellence in any field, especially nowadays when visual appeal is weighted more towards commercial interests than intellectual.

The Architectural Records of the Greene brothers at Columbia University. You might want to download the ExpressView Plug-In to see the images in higher resolution.

Also check out the Greene and Greene Virtual Archive for more.

Next week I'll post a link for viewing hi-resolution plates from the records of another master.